Pindari Glacier Trek

We are fresh off the trail of the 6-day Pindari Glacier Trek, which begins and ends in the town of Song. We were led to believe by our trusty Lonely Planet Guidebook that we could get info about the trek and arrange guides, porters, and supplies in Song. We weren't planning to hire a guide or porter, but we did want to pick up some food, maybe rent another sleeping bag, and definitely get some info about the trail route. While waiting for a jeep in a town 38 km from Song, I happened to see a small guide service, so I went in to see if they had information. They were able to sketch me a map of sorts. Great...I did something useful with my time. Little did we know that when we arrived in Song, there was little waiting for us but a dirt street with a dusty snack shop. Obviously confused and not sure what to do, we asked where the trail started, and the locals pointed us to a path leading "up". So we inadvertently started our trek much sooner that we expected, carrying everything we brought to India, and armed with only a hand-drawn map of the trail. We DID know that there was huts to stay in along the way, and some kind of food available there, and the distances between those checkpoints.
We lumbered up the trail, asking anyone we met if we were heading the right way. We eventually found a man who offered us a place to stay for the night, and cooked for us. He also let us keep some of our extra weight luggage at his place for us to pick up on the way out. The next day we plunged into the mountains, and were met by a HUGE landscape of jagged cliffs and a rushing glacier fed river. There was water everywhere, so we never had to carry more than 1 liter on us at a time. The sun filtered through the dense greenery, and the rocks all glittered when the sun hit them (much like the vampires in 'Twilight'). I know this is three movie references in two sentences, but we decided that the scenery was like 'Jurassic Park' meets 'Fern Gully'!
Out on this trail, it is all about supply and demand. Huts were cheap enough to spend a night at, but food was definitely pricey and limited. We have now eaten enough rice and potatoes to last us a lifetime. Vegetables are rare, and fruit is unheard of...but the one thing you can always count on finding at the end of the earth in India is a cup of chai. The chai was amazing, especially for all the chilly nights we spent huddled in our sleeping bags. Another interesting thing was that everywhere we stopped, the hut host was literally pleading us to sell him our headlamp. Mine is an old one with a crack that I would perhaps sell, but we need them for our next trek. We turned down offers left and right. Finally, on one of the last nights of the trek, one man kept upping his offer to Rs. 700 ($14) plus he'd throw in his own hand held flashlight. So we finally parted with the cracked headlamp. Supply and Demand! So a tip to anyone ever trekking in India: bring a bag full of old headlamps, and you will make a profit AND be everyone's best friend along the trail. They are all the rage in rural Himalaya!
Anywhere we stopped, we were always asked, "You have no guide? No porter?". It was nice to be on our own, and in truth the trail was very easy to follow, and we hardly had to carry anything since food and huts were available. The trek lead us into a sanctuary of snowed capped peaks, where we climbed a small hill and sat basking in the sun for 2 hours, surrounded by the beauty. This trek was exactly what we were looking for, and it was a good warm-up for our next one, which we hope to be longer, more remote, and carry our food and rent a tent. So, 90km and one broken Chaco later...we are back in Bageshwar, where we are still deciding which bus will we get on tomorrow morning at 5 am. Joshimath or Rishakesh...I'll let the suspense of that one hang with you until next time!

Bobble-head Indians and Hotel Haggling

What is with the Indian head bobble?!? It is starting to drive us crazy. It's this side-to-side head shake in response to a question that could mean "yes", but it could also mean "no". So we try to rephrase our questions and are met with the same response: A blank eye stare and that side-to-side head shake. Argh!

We took the train as far as it would go Northeast, to Kathgodam, where we unfortunately got in at 1 am. The WORST...because you still have to spend money on a guest house room, but you are only there for 8 hours. Plus most businesses have already locked their doors and gone to bed. By chance, we saw a man on his balcony who had a seedy little room that he charged us Rs.500 for (Almost double our normal rate). So anyway...we left the rail behind for bone-jarring buses and crammed jeep rides, and started inching our way towards the Himalayan. Often the roads are single lane and hug steep drop-offs, so we frequently have to back up a ways to let someone pass from the opposite direction.
First we stopped off at Nainital, which we decided was the Breckenridge of India. It's a super nice vacation town up in the mountains that surrounds a half-mile long lake. There is even a cable car that climbs up to a resort and Himalayan view, and gondola-style boats that you can pay a boatman to row around the lake. The street food is glorious here, ranging from filled pastries and omelets to seasoned corn-on-the-cob and hot chocolate made with a steamer. It was also fairly packed. we searched over a hour for a room and the prices were insane. One guy showed us a room by the light of his cell phone because there was no electricity. A "selling point" of the room was that it had a TV. Then he quoted us Rs. 900 ($20). We tried to point out that the TV didn't count since there was no electricity, and that the room was definitely not worth his price but that we would indeed stay for something more like Rs.250 (still a rip off for this place). He didn't go for it. After much toil and a literal miracle, we found a charming cheap room. Our time in Nainital was spent exploring and hiking the surrounding mountainside.
After spending a night in Almora and enjoying Mango juice in the bottle and the sunset from a rooftop hotel, we went on to Kausani. Kausani is a miniscule but beautiful town. We were met at the bus stop with the usual hustlers trying to get us to stay in their hotels and such. One man was so insistent that we look at his resort that we finally consented, even though we had told him our budget. He showed us a gorgeous, clean room with a balcony and amazing view, our own bathroom, and hot water and told us it was only Rs.1500. We laughed and said we weren't kidding about our budget and we were sticking to it. We started to walk away and he started dropping the price like mad. Finally, in desperation, he shouted, "400! You stay for 400!" It was pretty much a no-brainer at that point...so we splurged and stayed at a legit resort, watched movies in our room, and got room service! (We've found that room hunting is much like buying a car...you just have to NOT need what they are trying to sell you.) Also here, we spent an enjoyable night around a campfire with an Indian family who just kept giving us rum and pakora, telling jokes, listening to music, and taking photos with us/of us so they could remember us always.

How many Indian family photo albums will we make it into?

The closer we get to Delhi, the more we become something of minor celebrities. We've been asked countless times to have our photo taken with Indians, and they don't hesitate to position us...shaking our hands or draping their arms over our shoulders like we're old friends. We tried making some money off of it, and telling them it will cost 'em 5 rupees, but they all just start laughing at our joke. The best was a few nights ago, while groggy and waiting for a train at midnight, a young kid comes up to us and pantomimes a whole conversation to us. Eventually we figure out that he wants our autographs and whips out a pen and scrap of paper!
Pachmarhi was an amazing retreat for us. We spent one day finding cave temples all over the hillside. They have makeshift ladders and little steps chipped into the rock at some places, just when you think you won't be able to make it up the next cliff band. The next day we rented bikes again, and rode 11km out to a peak that many pilgrims climb to the temple at the top. We were definitely given many strange looks as we were passed by jeep after jeep on the winding road up. People would tell us on the hike that they saw us biking, and they thought that was just great. Then they would find out we were from America and all of a sudden we would be shaking everyone's hand in sight. Our third day we were a little hesitant about, because we wanted to see this waterfall, but it would cost us 200 rupees each. That's a nifty little charge known to be called "skin tax". For example, this same waterfall would cost an Indian 15 rupees. Or the TajMahal: Foreigners pay 750 Rs, and Indians pay 20 Rs. So we are trying to figure out a way we can get fake India citizenship cards made or something! Anyway...we decided that we would scout out the entrance station to the waterfalls, and then try and bushwhack our own path into the falls. We didn't think it would actually work, but by some miracle, we did find the waterfall, AND discovered some amazing cascading rock pools of water and cliff overlooks by accident along the way!
We did see the TajMahal (in Agra) yesterday, and had to suck it up and pay the fee, although I can't say we didn't have a look at the North side, bordering the water :). Not even us would ever be willing to get in that water to save a buck. The Taj is every bit as beautiful and breathtaking as you hear it is. We went at sunrise to get and sun's first rays hitting the dome. The other good thing about Agra is the vast array of really cheap and really good food here! We found a place that serves a big cup of chai, 2 eggs, and 4 pieces of toast with butter and jam for 30 Rs. We've been craving this "Western Breakfast" for so long, and anywhere else it costs 5 times as much. Yesterday was also the end of the Durga Puja Festival. There were parades in the street all day, with statues of the goddess. Everyone was dancing and drumming and covered in different colors of powder. We inevitably got covered in powder and joined the parade down to the river, where all the statues were being thrown into the water. Loud speakers are constantly blaring in the streets here, with some type of anthem or song (it's a common occurrence and we are starting to not even notice anymore) but yesterday they brought the volume up a couple notches for the parades. Just when we thought India couldn't possibly amp up the energy! It was crazy!
I'll leave you with a fun irony that we've noted. India washes before and after meals, and yet other hygiene issues don't seem to be a big deal. Like the street stand that Clay bought some food at...minutes later a cow roamed by and started eating directly off of the plate he had just bought food from. The shop owner merely shooed him away and then tidied up the food pile, munching on a few pieces while he did it!
Tomorrow: off to Kathgodam, the gateway to the Indian Himalaya. For the sake of time, money, and distance, we sadly decided to forgo the Nepalese Himalaya and get our glacier treks in a bit closer.  

Unexpected Kindness

It seems that the elements are following us. Our last day in Varanasi, it rained a record breaking 295mm in 24 hr, which was enough to hem us into one section of the city because the main streets were full of rushing water up to people's knees and even waists! One big problem here is the city sewer system is inefficient and perpetually clogged, and so massive rains cause the sewers to overflow. Gross! We didn't think too much of it, but read in the paper the next day that in some areas it had caused sink holes, destroyed shops, and claimed lives.
We miss the serene side of Varansi. Watching a guru teach his disciples beside the water and inches from an entire herd of cows soaking in the river...Early morning chai vendors...Friendly chats with locals on rooftop restaurants.
On to Khajuraho. The small, traffic free town of Kamasutra temples. We rented bicycles yesterday and rode about 20 miles through the countryside to look at temples. I can't even describe how freeing it was to be on a bike! We checked out a cluster of Jain temples, and as we understand it, Jainism is a sect of Hinduism. The extremists renounce everything worldly, including clothes, for 12 years while they search for enlightenment. Then, after achieving this, they sit in the lotus position and starve themselves to death. Wow.
It seems in this town that we are magnets of attention. You walk out the door of the guest house, and are immediately asked if you need a rickshaw ride, or a want to give a child a pen or candy, or would like to have a cup of tea with someone. The repetition of it is about enough to drive you insane. Here's a typical conversation that we have about 30 times a day:

"Hello my friend"... "Hi"
"Where you from?"... "United States"
"Ah, America! I like to make some conversation with you"... "Okay"
"How long you coming?"... (a bit of confusion) "We are here for 3 days"
"Excuse me sir, what is your occupation?"..."I'm a nurse"/"I build houses"
"It's good. You are friends?"..."We are married"
"Oh! (varied responses from approval to shock) You like India, something like honeymoon!"..."Kind of"

And then they follow you around for as long as possible and usually have some motive. But then once in a while you meet someone like Bahli and his wife, Shauno. Bahli found us one day at a temple for sunset, and we had the standard conversation. Then he wanted to have us to his house for dinner. We said we had plans that night but maybe we would see him tomorrow. Sure enough, he was waiting for us the next day. So, with a bit of trepidation in our hearts, we went to his house for dinner. He and his wife and kids showed us how they make chai and dahl, showed us their garden and gave us seeds "so we could start our own in America". Painted my fingernails and gave us small gifts. They showed us their coin collection and artwork and schoolbooks. And we taught them some phrases in Spanish. (They have a whole phrase book they have been collecting from travellers for years). We went back today to say goodbye, and they fed us more food! All this and never a mention of money or even a hint of asking for anything. We were blown away. Never underestimate the generosity or the love that can come from strangers. It was a very good lesson that softened our hearts towards the people of India again.
So now...about to catch a bus to Satna, then train to Pipariya, then bus again to Pachmarhi. Foothills, cooler weather, and less tourism await us!

Cow patties, Hustlers, and the Best Lassi ever

We made it to Varanasi via two separate train rides, since we booked tickets late. Our first train was 2 hours late, so we missed our departure for the second train. But luck was on our side and our second train was just as late...and we made it! Classic. This train had our favorite array of trinkets for sale yet, from light up bouncy balls to hair straighteners. Yes...just what we need on a train in India. Also, this was the first train that lived up to it's legend, with the seats being overbooked and exploding with people who did not pay for a seat like you did. We sung the praises of the rail a bit too soon.
Varanasi is an extremely spiritual town, 60% Hindu and 30% Muslim. The streets are all about 5 feet wide and a total labyrinth of vendors, goats, and cows. Cow patties abound. Doors are purposefully small so that, traditionally, you have to bow your head in reverence as you enter a home. The town lies along the holy Ganges river lined with ghats (bathing steps). Our hotel is on the burning ghat, Manikarnika. Last night we were led right up to the temple area where the burning is taking place. We were stepping over bodies and right up against the fires. It was incredibly hot. The body is brought on a bamboo gurney with a processional through the winding streets.
The people here are friendly, but everyone has some kind of agenda or are part of some scam to get money. We were touted 3 times in just 2 hours. It was unbelievable. At every turn someone is asking to "help" you, and there is always strings attached. We had Hindi dots smeared on our foreheads, ceremony flowers shoved in our hands, asked to give a donation for cremation wood, and ushered into a silk shop to sit on pillows and be offered tea while tons of silks were tossed out before us.We were afraid of offending their culture by refusing to participate in things offered to us, but now we're more street-wise and 99% of the time they just want your money. It's sad, because it places a wedge between them and tourists, who become more and more wary and on-edge.
On our walk back to the hotel, we discovered the Blue Lassi. Lassi is a great drink made of homemade yogurt, ice, and flavoring. This is a little place just off the alleyway that has serves 29 flavors and serves them up in a ceramic pot with little garnishes on the top for just 30 rupees (about 60 cents)! The pot is handmade and smashed on the street after only one use! The drink and the sincerely friendly owners rejuvenated our spirits and we vowed to return there daily.
Our hotel has a man that will lead you around into all the different Hindu temples for tips. This was amazing and informative. We got to go into some places that we never would have known existed otherwise. Overall this place is vibrant and colorful. We plan to stay a few days, and learn a few new climbing moves from the monkeys that are always playing on the temple near our rooftop.

We love our new umbrellas!

Our 10 hour train ride to Siliguri was overnight and, surprisingly, very comfortable! We had top bunks on a sleeper car with plenty of space to stretch out. The sad bit of news was that to reach Darjeeling, we still had to endure a 4 hour jeep ride, squished in with 10 other people. We were unlucky and got the very back seats which were insanely bumpy, the least leg room, and close to the roof of the jeep. I don't know if what we traveled on could be called a "road", or more just a steep washbed of rocks and jagged cement.
Darjeeling inself is a great little tiered town with more winding roads than we can make sense of. Green moss covers everything, and it hasn't stopped raining much in three days, giving the place a very misty magical Jungle Book kind of feel. The few moments the fog has cleared rewarded us with phenomenal 360 degree views of the green valleys below and the distant Himalayas. You can see for miles and there are villages dotting the hills everywhere.
Yesterday evening we were strolling in the market and suddenly heard a huge rumble and felt the earth start to shake. It was like nothing we've ever experienced before. The normally subdued Darjeeling-ites started running around the streets in a panic. From the looks of most construction tactics around here, we expected a shower of concrete and bricks at any moment. The shaking went on for awhile and the electricity went out. The streets here are confusing enough, and we were far from our hostel...so the darkness totally disoriented us. We got lost, but after an hour or so of walking, some help from the locals, and the light of our UV water purifier (yes...it doubles as a light source! amazing!) we finally found our way back. We found that the concrete slab in our bathroom had snapped in half and one window was broken. We heard from the locals that the earthquake was a 6.9, the biggest in decades! The epicenter of the quake was not too far from here, in Sikkim. The electricity is still not on, but the town is using battery and generators. We are thankful to have avoided any danger, but it was definitely exciting to experience the earth move under our feet. 

Endless Sweating, Endless Chaos

We arrived in Kolkata and took a taxi to Sudder St., which is where most backpackers go. The 16 km took us a good 1.5 hours because traffic is ridiculous. The air is filled with nonstop honking and most of the time we could reach out and high-five the person in the next taxi over. Our hostel ended up a grubby little concrete cell with a ceiling fan and a barred window, with shared squatty toilet holes for everyone.
Within a few hours, we quickly realized that we wanted to get out of Kolkata as soon as possible, but still had a day to kill. Waking up at 5:00am, we took to the miraculously quiet streets. It was quite a sublime experience to walk the same sidewalks minus normal chaos. I don't think I realized just how many of the street vendors and rickshaw drivers slept on the streets. People everywhere were just waking up, and it was interesting to see them in this much more vulnerable state.
Tonight we head for Darjeeling, a much smaller mountain town, on the train. Even in India we find ourselves fleeing from the big cities. So far this place has far exceeded what everyone told us it would be in terms of in-your-face noise, crowds, and poverty. It has also overwhelmed each of our senses and given new thought to what is aesthetically pleasing. 
P.S. We also started using our UV light water purifier. Clay affectionately refers to it as his wizard's wand. It's kinda like birth control...you're not convinced it's working at first and just have to trust it and see what happens.