Friday, September 23, 2011

Cow patties, Hustlers, and the Best Lassi ever

We made it to Varanasi via two separate train rides, since we booked tickets late. Our first train was 2 hours late, so we missed our departure for the second train. But luck was on our side and our second train was just as late...and we made it! Classic. This train had our favorite array of trinkets for sale yet, from light up bouncy balls to hair straighteners. Yes...just what we need on a train in India. Also, this was the first train that lived up to it's legend, with the seats being overbooked and exploding with people who did not pay for a seat like you did. We sung the praises of the rail a bit too soon.
Varanasi is an extremely spiritual town, 60% Hindu and 30% Muslim. The streets are all about 5 feet wide and a total labyrinth of vendors, goats, and cows. Cow patties abound. Doors are purposefully small so that, traditionally, you have to bow your head in reverence as you enter a home. The town lies along the holy Ganges river lined with ghats (bathing steps). Our hotel is on the burning ghat, Manikarnika. Last night we were led right up to the temple area where the burning is taking place. We were stepping over bodies and right up against the fires. It was incredibly hot. The body is brought on a bamboo gurney with a processional through the winding streets.
The people here are friendly, but everyone has some kind of agenda or are part of some scam to get money. We were touted 3 times in just 2 hours. It was unbelievable. At every turn someone is asking to "help" you, and there is always strings attached. We had Hindi dots smeared on our foreheads, ceremony flowers shoved in our hands, asked to give a donation for cremation wood, and ushered into a silk shop to sit on pillows and be offered tea while tons of silks were tossed out before us.We were afraid of offending their culture by refusing to participate in things offered to us, but now we're more street-wise and 99% of the time they just want your money. It's sad, because it places a wedge between them and tourists, who become more and more wary and on-edge.
On our walk back to the hotel, we discovered the Blue Lassi. Lassi is a great drink made of homemade yogurt, ice, and flavoring. This is a little place just off the alleyway that has serves 29 flavors and serves them up in a ceramic pot with little garnishes on the top for just 30 rupees (about 60 cents)! The pot is handmade and smashed on the street after only one use! The drink and the sincerely friendly owners rejuvenated our spirits and we vowed to return there daily.
Our hotel has a man that will lead you around into all the different Hindu temples for tips. This was amazing and informative. We got to go into some places that we never would have known existed otherwise. Overall this place is vibrant and colorful. We plan to stay a few days, and learn a few new climbing moves from the monkeys that are always playing on the temple near our rooftop.

2 comments:

  1. So cool! This is where I learned that the old legend that cows can't walk down steps is a lie! Miss you guys drink a lassi or chai for me.

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  2. Love Blue Lassi, best lassi's in india, if you can find a seat...

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