It seems that the elements are following us. Our last day in Varanasi, it rained a record breaking 295mm in 24 hr, which was enough to hem us into one section of the city because the main streets were full of rushing water up to people's knees and even waists! One big problem here is the city sewer system is inefficient and perpetually clogged, and so massive rains cause the sewers to overflow. Gross! We didn't think too much of it, but read in the paper the next day that in some areas it had caused sink holes, destroyed shops, and claimed lives.
We miss the serene side of Varansi. Watching a guru teach his disciples beside the water and inches from an entire herd of cows soaking in the river...Early morning chai vendors...Friendly chats with locals on rooftop restaurants.
On to Khajuraho. The small, traffic free town of Kamasutra temples. We rented bicycles yesterday and rode about 20 miles through the countryside to look at temples. I can't even describe how freeing it was to be on a bike! We checked out a cluster of Jain temples, and as we understand it, Jainism is a sect of Hinduism. The extremists renounce everything worldly, including clothes, for 12 years while they search for enlightenment. Then, after achieving this, they sit in the lotus position and starve themselves to death. Wow.
It seems in this town that we are magnets of attention. You walk out the door of the guest house, and are immediately asked if you need a rickshaw ride, or a want to give a child a pen or candy, or would like to have a cup of tea with someone. The repetition of it is about enough to drive you insane. Here's a typical conversation that we have about 30 times a day:
"Hello my friend"... "Hi"
"Where you from?"... "United States"
"Ah, America! I like to make some conversation with you"... "Okay"
"How long you coming?"... (a bit of confusion) "We are here for 3 days"
"Excuse me sir, what is your occupation?"..."I'm a nurse"/"I build houses"
"It's good. You are friends?"..."We are married"
"Oh! (varied responses from approval to shock) You like India, something like honeymoon!"..."Kind of"
And then they follow you around for as long as possible and usually have some motive. But then once in a while you meet someone like Bahli and his wife, Shauno. Bahli found us one day at a temple for sunset, and we had the standard conversation. Then he wanted to have us to his house for dinner. We said we had plans that night but maybe we would see him tomorrow. Sure enough, he was waiting for us the next day. So, with a bit of trepidation in our hearts, we went to his house for dinner. He and his wife and kids showed us how they make chai and dahl, showed us their garden and gave us seeds "so we could start our own in America". Painted my fingernails and gave us small gifts. They showed us their coin collection and artwork and schoolbooks. And we taught them some phrases in Spanish. (They have a whole phrase book they have been collecting from travellers for years). We went back today to say goodbye, and they fed us more food! All this and never a mention of money or even a hint of asking for anything. We were blown away. Never underestimate the generosity or the love that can come from strangers. It was a very good lesson that softened our hearts towards the people of India again.
So now...about to catch a bus to Satna, then train to Pipariya, then bus again to Pachmarhi. Foothills, cooler weather, and less tourism await us!
We miss the serene side of Varansi. Watching a guru teach his disciples beside the water and inches from an entire herd of cows soaking in the river...Early morning chai vendors...Friendly chats with locals on rooftop restaurants.
On to Khajuraho. The small, traffic free town of Kamasutra temples. We rented bicycles yesterday and rode about 20 miles through the countryside to look at temples. I can't even describe how freeing it was to be on a bike! We checked out a cluster of Jain temples, and as we understand it, Jainism is a sect of Hinduism. The extremists renounce everything worldly, including clothes, for 12 years while they search for enlightenment. Then, after achieving this, they sit in the lotus position and starve themselves to death. Wow.
It seems in this town that we are magnets of attention. You walk out the door of the guest house, and are immediately asked if you need a rickshaw ride, or a want to give a child a pen or candy, or would like to have a cup of tea with someone. The repetition of it is about enough to drive you insane. Here's a typical conversation that we have about 30 times a day:
"Hello my friend"... "Hi"
"Where you from?"... "United States"
"Ah, America! I like to make some conversation with you"... "Okay"
"How long you coming?"... (a bit of confusion) "We are here for 3 days"
"Excuse me sir, what is your occupation?"..."I'm a nurse"/"I build houses"
"It's good. You are friends?"..."We are married"
"Oh! (varied responses from approval to shock) You like India, something like honeymoon!"..."Kind of"
And then they follow you around for as long as possible and usually have some motive. But then once in a while you meet someone like Bahli and his wife, Shauno. Bahli found us one day at a temple for sunset, and we had the standard conversation. Then he wanted to have us to his house for dinner. We said we had plans that night but maybe we would see him tomorrow. Sure enough, he was waiting for us the next day. So, with a bit of trepidation in our hearts, we went to his house for dinner. He and his wife and kids showed us how they make chai and dahl, showed us their garden and gave us seeds "so we could start our own in America". Painted my fingernails and gave us small gifts. They showed us their coin collection and artwork and schoolbooks. And we taught them some phrases in Spanish. (They have a whole phrase book they have been collecting from travellers for years). We went back today to say goodbye, and they fed us more food! All this and never a mention of money or even a hint of asking for anything. We were blown away. Never underestimate the generosity or the love that can come from strangers. It was a very good lesson that softened our hearts towards the people of India again.
So now...about to catch a bus to Satna, then train to Pipariya, then bus again to Pachmarhi. Foothills, cooler weather, and less tourism await us!
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