The closer we get to Delhi, the more we become something of minor celebrities. We've been asked countless times to have our photo taken with Indians, and they don't hesitate to position us...shaking our hands or draping their arms over our shoulders like we're old friends. We tried making some money off of it, and telling them it will cost 'em 5 rupees, but they all just start laughing at our joke. The best was a few nights ago, while groggy and waiting for a train at midnight, a young kid comes up to us and pantomimes a whole conversation to us. Eventually we figure out that he wants our autographs and whips out a pen and scrap of paper!
Pachmarhi was an amazing retreat for us. We spent one day finding cave temples all over the hillside. They have makeshift ladders and little steps chipped into the rock at some places, just when you think you won't be able to make it up the next cliff band. The next day we rented bikes again, and rode 11km out to a peak that many pilgrims climb to the temple at the top. We were definitely given many strange looks as we were passed by jeep after jeep on the winding road up. People would tell us on the hike that they saw us biking, and they thought that was just great. Then they would find out we were from America and all of a sudden we would be shaking everyone's hand in sight. Our third day we were a little hesitant about, because we wanted to see this waterfall, but it would cost us 200 rupees each. That's a nifty little charge known to be called "skin tax". For example, this same waterfall would cost an Indian 15 rupees. Or the TajMahal: Foreigners pay 750 Rs, and Indians pay 20 Rs. So we are trying to figure out a way we can get fake India citizenship cards made or something! Anyway...we decided that we would scout out the entrance station to the waterfalls, and then try and bushwhack our own path into the falls. We didn't think it would actually work, but by some miracle, we did find the waterfall, AND discovered some amazing cascading rock pools of water and cliff overlooks by accident along the way!
We did see the TajMahal (in Agra) yesterday, and had to suck it up and pay the fee, although I can't say we didn't have a look at the North side, bordering the water :). Not even us would ever be willing to get in that water to save a buck. The Taj is every bit as beautiful and breathtaking as you hear it is. We went at sunrise to get and sun's first rays hitting the dome. The other good thing about Agra is the vast array of really cheap and really good food here! We found a place that serves a big cup of chai, 2 eggs, and 4 pieces of toast with butter and jam for 30 Rs. We've been craving this "Western Breakfast" for so long, and anywhere else it costs 5 times as much. Yesterday was also the end of the Durga Puja Festival. There were parades in the street all day, with statues of the goddess. Everyone was dancing and drumming and covered in different colors of powder. We inevitably got covered in powder and joined the parade down to the river, where all the statues were being thrown into the water. Loud speakers are constantly blaring in the streets here, with some type of anthem or song (it's a common occurrence and we are starting to not even notice anymore) but yesterday they brought the volume up a couple notches for the parades. Just when we thought India couldn't possibly amp up the energy! It was crazy!
I'll leave you with a fun irony that we've noted. India washes before and after meals, and yet other hygiene issues don't seem to be a big deal. Like the street stand that Clay bought some food at...minutes later a cow roamed by and started eating directly off of the plate he had just bought food from. The shop owner merely shooed him away and then tidied up the food pile, munching on a few pieces while he did it!
Tomorrow: off to Kathgodam, the gateway to the Indian Himalaya. For the sake of time, money, and distance, we sadly decided to forgo the Nepalese Himalaya and get our glacier treks in a bit closer.
Pachmarhi was an amazing retreat for us. We spent one day finding cave temples all over the hillside. They have makeshift ladders and little steps chipped into the rock at some places, just when you think you won't be able to make it up the next cliff band. The next day we rented bikes again, and rode 11km out to a peak that many pilgrims climb to the temple at the top. We were definitely given many strange looks as we were passed by jeep after jeep on the winding road up. People would tell us on the hike that they saw us biking, and they thought that was just great. Then they would find out we were from America and all of a sudden we would be shaking everyone's hand in sight. Our third day we were a little hesitant about, because we wanted to see this waterfall, but it would cost us 200 rupees each. That's a nifty little charge known to be called "skin tax". For example, this same waterfall would cost an Indian 15 rupees. Or the TajMahal: Foreigners pay 750 Rs, and Indians pay 20 Rs. So we are trying to figure out a way we can get fake India citizenship cards made or something! Anyway...we decided that we would scout out the entrance station to the waterfalls, and then try and bushwhack our own path into the falls. We didn't think it would actually work, but by some miracle, we did find the waterfall, AND discovered some amazing cascading rock pools of water and cliff overlooks by accident along the way!
We did see the TajMahal (in Agra) yesterday, and had to suck it up and pay the fee, although I can't say we didn't have a look at the North side, bordering the water :). Not even us would ever be willing to get in that water to save a buck. The Taj is every bit as beautiful and breathtaking as you hear it is. We went at sunrise to get and sun's first rays hitting the dome. The other good thing about Agra is the vast array of really cheap and really good food here! We found a place that serves a big cup of chai, 2 eggs, and 4 pieces of toast with butter and jam for 30 Rs. We've been craving this "Western Breakfast" for so long, and anywhere else it costs 5 times as much. Yesterday was also the end of the Durga Puja Festival. There were parades in the street all day, with statues of the goddess. Everyone was dancing and drumming and covered in different colors of powder. We inevitably got covered in powder and joined the parade down to the river, where all the statues were being thrown into the water. Loud speakers are constantly blaring in the streets here, with some type of anthem or song (it's a common occurrence and we are starting to not even notice anymore) but yesterday they brought the volume up a couple notches for the parades. Just when we thought India couldn't possibly amp up the energy! It was crazy!
I'll leave you with a fun irony that we've noted. India washes before and after meals, and yet other hygiene issues don't seem to be a big deal. Like the street stand that Clay bought some food at...minutes later a cow roamed by and started eating directly off of the plate he had just bought food from. The shop owner merely shooed him away and then tidied up the food pile, munching on a few pieces while he did it!
Tomorrow: off to Kathgodam, the gateway to the Indian Himalaya. For the sake of time, money, and distance, we sadly decided to forgo the Nepalese Himalaya and get our glacier treks in a bit closer.
Hey, time for a new post here. Surely you've done something exciting during the past week. You're making memories for a lifetime. Glad you've stayed safe. I hope this post works because I'm not sure what profile to choose. Hope Anonymous works. Uncle Steve
ReplyDelete